Для реализации этой цели были изучены теоретические вопросы формообразования в традиционном проектировании одежды и выявлены элементы композиционно-информационной структуры современного костюма; проведен анализ использования композиционных элементов украинской народной одежды в современном проектировании; а также изучены принципы формообразования и развития основных силуэтных форм женского костюма на протяжении второй половины 20 века.
Основные результаты работы были внедрены при проектировании перспективной промышленной коллекции женского костюма, выполненной на базе Экспериментального швейного производства Центра развития моды (Киев, Украина).
Ключевые слова: процесс проектирования, системный подход, прогнозирование формообразования костюма, морфологическая структура формы, методика дизайна систем, система эстетических показателей качества.
Chouprina N.V. The elaboration of aesthetic and technological principles of modern women costume collection, based on the ukrainian national clothes, design. – Manuscript.
The thesis for obtaining the candidate's degree of technical sciences on speciality 05.19.04 – technology of sewing clothes. – The State University of Technologies and Design, Kyiv, 2001.
The dissertation is devoted to the solution of topics of analysis and development of scientific and methodological foundations of costume design process, it's orientation for the industrial collections design, to make this process optimal.
A new direction of scientific investigation is the elaboration of system methods of approach to the process of design, principles of using of system's design method, that makes existent scheme of design process more perfect, up to modern scientific level.
The methods of scientific prognostication of formal morphological structure development are devised in dissertation, that makes design and planning processes of working out the industrial collections of modern women costume the most optimal. There are recommendations for the elaboration of using new computer technologies in perspective clothes collection design made.
The object of investigation is a determination of aesthetic demands that must the industrially made collection have; of principles of formbuilding of costume, by time passing and of ability of using morphological indications of Ukrainian national costume structure in perspective modern clothes design.
Clothes is the main part of the result of light industry production. The difficulty of statement of research problems in this field is in the absence of common system of questions. Any changes in the conditions of modern clothes activize scientific researches, which must make clothes industrial design perfect. One of the most important pieces in this research is complex decision of technical, engineering, artistic and aesthetic questions. That underlines the actuality of modern scientific researches of the clothes design process.
The aesthetic indices system structure in the design aspect is the structure of differential objects.The common systematic property, especially on the harmonization means level, is the point that absolut majority of them make dialectic integrially opposed properties, that describe their connections. The invariance or variance of different aesthetic indices is an important common property of the system structure. This proprty is the necessary prerequisite for the optimal, aesthetically perfect design projects search.
Today one of the main problems of clothes design is the definition of a possibility to make composition of design aesthetics quantitative. The modern level of the garment design development demands to look back at those methods and images, which are examed by time and which are preserved in the traditional garment the best. To prove this the interrogation of many different people was held. The possibility of using the system design method while clothes design was also checked-up.
In this scientific investigation there is worked out theoretical foundations of prognostication of perspective costume forms, considering the national costume traditions and modern design trends using. For this case there was worked out theoretical items of formbuilding in ordinary clothes design; there was determined elements of composite and informative structure of modern costume; as well, there was made an analysis of using Ukrainian national costume composite elements in modern design and was explored principles of formbuilding of main silhouette forms of women costume of the second half of 20th century development.
One of the main aims of these topics investigation is determination of ways and methods of practical using of aesthetic design theory, especially, new results of merging of aesthetic factors systems and their objective characteristics with designer's individual or collective creative potential. That's why, to elaborate the theoretical basis for creating industrial women's clothes collection, in this dissertation there were explored ways, methods and means of system's design, which must promote different types of collection design.
The main results of this scientific investigation are:
Creation of scientifically proved and substantiate system of clothes quality aesthetic indices;
Elaboration of costume forms development prognostication and perspective clothes collection design, based on using composite and technological structure of Ukrainian national costume;
Working out the perspective women clothes collection, using composite principles of national costume and morphological indications of the form, that must be prognosticated.
The main results of this scientific investigation were applied in design of perspective industrial collection of women costume that was manufactured by Experimental clothing industry of Fashion Development Center (Kyiv, Ukrainе).
Key words: design process, the system approach, costume formbuilding, morphological form structure, system's design methods, system of clothes quality aesthetic indices.